Survivor Sam wants you to play safe this 4th of July.

4th-of-july-safety-1024x10244th of July Safety – Play Safe Around Fireworks
By []Dave Ference

Fireworks originated in China during the Sung dynasty, from 960 to 1279, when a cook discovered that a mixture of sulphur, saltpetre, and charcoal was highly flammable.

Over the 4th of July holiday, most families will go to big community fireworks displays, which are performed by professionals that take many precautions to assure safety.

A growing number of families will have their own backyard festivities with store-bought fireworks. Unfortunately, many will not take the safety precautions that the pros do.

The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission estimates that in 2004 (latest figures available) about 9,600 people were treated in hospital emergency rooms for fireworks injuries. Over half were burns and most involved the hands, eyes, and head. About half of the victims were under 15 years of age.

Small children are especially vulnerable because they are attracted to the bright colors of fireworks, but don’t understand the danger. This includes “safe” fireworks such as sparklers, which burn at between 1832º – 3632º Fahrenheit.

In 2005 fireworks caused an estimated 1,800 structure fires and 700 vehicle fires.

Following are some fireworks safety tips to keep kids safe this holiday and all summer.

o Only adults should handle fireworks. Tell children that they should leave the area immediately if their friends are using fireworks.
o Sparklers, generally considered safe for the young, burn at very high temperatures and can easily ignite clothing.
o Older children should only be permitted to use fireworks under close adult supervision. Do not allow any running or horseplay.
o Discuss safety procedures with your children. Teach children “stop, drop and roll” if their clothes catch fire. Make sure they know how to call 9-1-1. Show them how to put out fireworks by using water or a fire extinguisher.
o Read labels and carefully follow directions. All fireworks must carry a warning label describing necessary safety precautions. If they don’t have the label, don’t use them.
o Never use fireworks indoors.
o Be sure spectators are out of range before lighting fireworks.
o Never aim or throw fireworks at another person.
o Never place your face or any other body part over fireworks (eye protection is recommended).
o Never try to re-ignite fireworks that malfunction. Throw them away.
o Keep a bucket of water nearby for emergencies and for pouring on fireworks that don’t go off.
o Never carry fireworks in your pocket.
o Only light fireworks on a smooth, flat surface away from the house, dry leaves, and flammable materials.
o Check for drought conditions in your area. During those times, fireworks are usually banned completely.
o Keep unused fireworks away from firing areas.
o Store fireworks in a dry, cool place. Check instructions for special storage directions.
o Observe local laws.
o Fireworks and alcohol don’t mix. If you have consumed alcohol, do not light fireworks.
o Don’t experiment with homemade fireworks.
o Be considerate of your neighbors and stop your celebrations by 10:00 p.m.
o Clean up all the sticks, wires, tubes, etc. that are left around after your fireworks. Put them in a bucket of water and let them soak overnight to be sure they are out.
o Many pets are terrorized by fireworks. Be sure your dogs and cats are in an area they feel secure in. Don’t take them to community fireworks displays.

Even by following these tips, fireworks can still be quite dangerous. Use safe alternatives to fireworks such as Cap bombs, Sparklers, Party Poppers, Snappers, or Carbide cannons such as Big-Bang Cannons.

Use common sense and keep yourself and your family safe this holiday season.

Dave Ference owns and operates Dave’s Cool Toys. He writes a monthly e-newsletter with information, tips, ideas safety, and fun things all about kids and toys. Subscribe to Dave’s Cool Toys e-Newsletter at or visit

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Ticks are disgusting!

Posted: April 20, 2016 in Pets, Uncategorized
Tags: , , , ,

OK, can I just say that ticks, and all blood sucking vermin, are totally disgusting? Yes, I know. I’m supposed to be Mr. Tough Guy, but I really hate critters that stick their heads under your skin and feed on your flesh. That goes for zombies, too, but let’s not bring Tyler into this conversation.

I hope this article helps you understand ticks better and gives you good information to protect yourself from Lyme Disease.

~ Survivor Sam

Tick-Bite-Pictures Understanding Ticks and How to Keep Them Off Your Pets and Out of Your House

Understanding Ticks and How to Keep Them Off Your Pets and Out of Your House

By Joe Cinova

Life Cycle Information of a Tick

Over the years folklore has played a big role in defining what we believe to be factual when discussing ticks. It is important when discussing this pest to understand exactly how the parasite is a threat to us and our pets.

Contrary to popular belief, ticks don’t jump or flap around in the breeze till they find a host. They are however tiny spider like creatures that exhibit a tremendous amount of patience waiting for the right prey.

The stages of a tick’s life are: egg, larva, nymph and then adult. So to survive they will have to eat 4 times engorging themselves for up to 8 days or more. During this time they will increase their weight by up to 100 times their original weight. They continue to do so until they are full.

Remember their purpose in life is continuing the species. Eating is naturally an important role in their lifespan and this is where they acquire diseases. They feed on one host and then deliver it to the next. That’s why Tick Control is so important.

They actually have quite an interesting sensory organ called Haller’s organ that can determine small quantities of carbon dioxide, heat and other stimuli. They are then capable of finding areas well traveled by humans and animals so they can select where to go for a host and ultimately to feed.

Once they locate the potential source of food, they crawl high into the grass, wait for the host to walk by then attach themselves to enjoy their feast. In the mouths of a tick are harpoon like barbs which allow them to “hang on” to their host. Ticks also produce a type of glue to help their mouths stay in place while they eat. You see, ticks need to have a “blood” meal during each part of their life cycle.

Once a female tick has mated and eaten, they will leave the host. They go to the ground to lay their eggs. Some species lay about 100 eggs while others can lay up to 6000. Once completed the female will die. The male goes through its normal life cycle and will die after it mates.

Once eggs are laid they take about 14 days to hatch. The life cycle starts all over again. Some live for up to two months, others can live for up to two years, It depends on what type of tick you’re talking about.

Species of Ticks

The number of different species of ticks range up into the hundreds. Even so there are actually very few species of ticks that pose a threat to humans or pets. If the tick happens to be from an area where tick diseases are common it can be assumed that an infection would exist if it where found on your body.

Regardless of the type of tick they are considered to fall into one of two general but important categories. Some are selective meaning they feed only on a certain type of host. This tends to keep infectious diseases within that group.

Others are ticks of opportunity, meaning they feed on whatever host is available. This type of tick is the one that causes the real concern because it will move a disease from one type of group to another. This is called Zoonosis. (The capability of a disease of being transmitted from a non-human to a human.) Lyme disease is the most common known of these infections.

The Ixodes group contains the largest number of ticks carrying infectious diseases. Unfortunately it’s quite difficult even for an expert to determine the type of tick that may have been found on a host. It will depend on two things. The first is the geographic location of where the tick was found. The second relies on a specific characteristic to each tick. It is a “shield” located just behind the ticks mouthparts.

Because ticks are usually found after a period of feeding their engorged bodies alone are difficult to identify. The shield however always stays the same size and in the same location, right behind the mouth. This allows identification of the tick with a high amount of certainty.

Size and color of ticks can also help to identify it. Remember if you have a tick knowing the species and how long it was attached all help determine the ultimate risk of infection to the host.

A black tick around the size of an pencil top eraser is probably a “dog tick” and not believed to carry Lyme Disease. A brown tick (aka: Black Legged Deer Tick) the size of a pen point is usually known to carry Lyme Disease Northeast, Southeast and Midwest areas of the country. A brown tick with a blotch of white on it’s back (aka: Lone Star Tick) can carry Lyme Disease but is more known to carry STARI (southern tick-associated rash illness).

Now What – I Found a Tick on Me…

  • Getting rid of the tick as quickly as possible is the best defense in preventing infection. Lyme disease transmission takes up to 36-48 hours of feeding after the tick becomes attached to the host.
  • The organism responsible for Lyme Disease sits dormant in the ticks gut. The hot blood that it ingest reactivates it. As it feeds, the tick needs to get rid of any excessive water. It does so by salivating into the punctured area. This is how the infection ultimately gets passed to the host.
  • Don’t squeeze the tick, especially with your fingers. If it has eaten and blood is squeezed from it, the infection can enter even the smallest pore of your skin. Use a pair of needle nose tweezers. Grab the tick close to the skin near it’s mouth. Pull, don’t tug the tick straight out. They have a strong grip so you will need to pull gently but firmly.
  • Don’t put Vaseline, alcohol, repellent or anything else on the tick. Don’t try and burn it off with a cigarette either. It could cause the tick to eject the fluids back into the skin.
  • Once it’s removed, save the tick and preserve it in a little rubbing alcohol in a small jar or a used pill bottle. Remember, having the tick can assess the likelihood of getting Lyme Disease.
  • Where did you get the tick? This also helps to assess the possibility of infection.
  • Using soap and water or rubbing alcohol you need to scrub the bite site.

Lyme disease patients who are diagnosed early, and receive proper antibiotic treatment, usually recover rapidly and completely. A key component is recognizing Lyme disease rash. This rash often manifests itself in a “bull’s-eye” appearance, and is observed in about 80 percent of Lyme disease patients. (Courtesy CDC)

There are approximately 16,000 cases a year of Lyme Disease. About 300-400 people a year are stricken with Rocky Mountain Spotted Fever. Knowing what to do and what not to do, can help prevent unnecessary infection. Make sure to contact your local health department if you think you may be infected and practice good Flea and Tick Control.

Hi and thanks for reading my article!

This site was formed to provide information on the nature of Flea and Tick Control issues especially with pets. Ranking a close second to mosquitoes, ticks and fleas present themselves as a formidable challenge when trying to protect your pet. Having the right medications is of the utmost importance and you can get them right here.


Wishing everyone a Happy and Safe Thanksgiving weekend.


Halloween Safety for Pets

Posted: October 16, 2015 in Pets
Tags: , , , , ,

petBig Thanks to my friend, Carol Lizotte, for sending me this article. She is a wonderful caring person who loves pets of all kinds. This Halloween, please be sensitive to the needs and desires of your pet as many things we think are cute can be dangerous to their health.

~ Sam

No Scaredy Cats This Halloween: Top 10 Safety Tips for Pet Parents

Attention, animal lovers, it’s almost the spookiest night of the year! The ASPCA recommends taking some common sense precautions this Halloween to keep you and your pet saying “trick or treat!” all the way to November 1.

1. No tricks, no treats: That bowl of candy is for trick-or-treaters, not for Scruffy and Fluffy. Chocolate in all forms—especially dark or baking chocolate—can be very dangerous for dogs and cats. Candies containing the artificial sweetener xylitol can also cause problems. If you do suspect your pet has ingested something toxic, please call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435.

2. Popular Halloween plants such as pumpkins and decorative corn are considered to be relatively nontoxic, but they can produce stomach upset in pets who nibble on them.

3. Wires and cords from electric lights and other decorations should be kept out of reach of your pets. If chewed, your pet might suffer cuts or burns, or receive a possibly life-threatening electrical shock.

4. A carved pumpkin certainly is festive, but do exercise caution if you choose to add a candle. Pets can easily knock a lit pumpkin over and cause a fire. Curious kittens especially run the risk of getting burned or singed by candle flames.

5. Dress-up can be a big mess-up for some pets. Please don’t put your dog or cat in a costume UNLESS you know he or she loves it (yup, a few pets are real hams!). For pets who prefer their “birthday suits,” however, wearing a costume may cause undue stress.

6. If you do dress up your pet, make sure the costume isn’t annoying or unsafe. It should not constrict the animal’s movement or hearing, or impede his ability to breathe, bark or meow. Also, be sure to try on costumes before the big night. If your pet seems distressed, allergic or shows abnormal behavior, consider letting him go au naturale or donning a festive bandana.

7. Take a closer look at your pet’s costume and make sure it does not have small, dangling or easily chewed-off pieces that he could choke on. Also, ill-fitting outfits can get twisted on external objects or your pet, leading to injury.

8. All but the most social dogs and cats should be kept in a separate room away from the front door during peak trick-or-treating hours. Too many strangers can be scary and stressful for pets.

9. When opening the door for trick-or-treaters, take care that your cat or dog doesn’t dart outside.

10. IDs, please! Always make sure your dog or cat has proper identification. If for any reason your pet escapes and becomes lost, a collar and tags and/or a microchip can be a lifesaver, increaing the chances that he or she will be returned to you

Autumn Safety for Your Pets

Hey, fans. Welcome to Autumn, or Fall as we call it in New England. The leaves are turning and the weather is getting chilly. Here are some good tips for keeping your pets safe and active in the colder weather.

~ Sam

Doggie191Autumn Safety for Your Pets
By Thomas R Arnold

As summer starts to wind down and the changing leaves signal the end of hot, stifling weather, pets anxiously await the cooler weather. This transition of the seasons ushers in relief, but can also present certain dangers that are unique to the season. Learning to recognize these hazards will keep your pet out of trouble and comfortable in the incoming weather.

Keeping Warm

As the weather changes, especially in the northern part of the country, vehicles kept outside become appealing places for cats as they try to warm themselves in the engine compartment. They may sustain fan belt injuries if they can’t get out from under your hood in time. A good precaution to take may be to honk your horn three times and then wait five to ten seconds before cranking the engine. To be extra safe you may even want to open the hood and conduct a visual inspection. Your neighbor’s cat will thank you.

While on the topic of heat, animals that spend a majority of their time outside will need some extra attention during this time. Continue to groom your pet (especially dogs), but let their fur grow out and don’t brush out their undercoat. Frostbite is also a concern in extremely cold weather. Just as in humans, pets are prone to frostbite on the extremities. Paws, ears, nose and tail should be checked for gray or red color skin that is painful to the touch. Severe frostbite will present as painless and very hard to the touch. Seek professional help immediately if you suspect your pet has frostbite. These pets will also need more food as their bodies will use more energy to produce more heat. Check their water as often as you can to make sure it’s not frozen.

Household Chemical Precautions

Be careful when handling and applying chemicals around the house. Salt used for melting snow and ice on sidewalks can be extremely irritating if it gets in between your pet’s toes. Take precautions when winterizing your vehicle as antifreeze has a sweet taste that can attract pets, but is extremely toxic. Consider investing in safer, pet friendly antifreeze.

Keeping Active Indoors

Lastly, if your pet will be spending more time indoors, they may not be getting the exercise they need to expend energy. Find an activity your cat can do indoors to stay active such as scratching posts, batting a ball or climbing stackable cubes will help them relax. For dogs, working on training may not be as physically challenging, but the concentration required can be just as tiring. The added benefit is a well behaved dog in the house. Autumn weather can be beautiful and the cool temperatures can come as a relief. Keeping your pet safe doesn’t take much effort and this way you can enjoy the season together. connects new and seasoned pet owners with resources to help raise happy, healthy, well-adjusted animals (such as articles, parks, businesses, groomers, vets, trainers, and much more).

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Beach Safety

Sam’s Note: Every wonder what those flags mean at the lifeguard stations? This is nice reference. Stay safe this summer. Watch out for sharks and zombies. My ex-friend Zombie Tyler is cruising the beaches this summer. To stay sharp on your anti-zombie skills, consider taking some self-defense classes at Matt Randall’s Black Belt Academy.

beach-safety-beach-warning-flags-fullBy Coleen Bennett

When you go to the beach, take a look at the lifeguard towers. They’re usually flying a flag to alert swimmers to the water conditions.  Here’s what they mean.

Green Flag – Conditions are good for swimming.

Yellow Flag – Conditions are moderate, but use caution. Rip currents could form.

Red Flag – Strong currents and rough surf make the water unsafe for swimmers.

Yellow Flag with a Black Dot – No watercraft allowed in the water. No surfboards, boogies boards, etc.  Just swimmers.

Orange cones near the lifeguard station designate the area that needs to be kept free for lifeguard and emergency vehicles.

Red or orange flags mark the swimming and body boarding area.  Surfing is not allowed between the flags. The lifeguards try to designate a relatively safe area, with fewer hazards, such as rip currents.

Eighty percent of all lifeguard rescues at the beach are due to swimmers getting caught in rip currents and not knowing how to get out. The first step to staying out of trouble is to know what the signal flags mean and to follow their recommendations. If the flags are red, don’t go swimming. The waves are too big and the rip currents are too strong. Build sandcastles, get your toes wet and work on your tan. Come back another day to swim.

Although less urgent than the danger of drowning, you should also pay attention to sun safety.  The water reflects the sunlight, so you’re much more likely to get burned at the beach than in other places. Even on an overcast day, much of the sun’s rays get through. Protect yourself with a strong sunscreen, and reapply it often, since it washes off in the water. For sensitive spots, like your nose or under your eyes, use zinc oxide for extra protection. It’s not as easy to find as sunscreen, but surf shops have it, or you can order it online.

The beach is a great, inexpensive place to have fun. Just take a few safety precautions to make the most of your experience.

Coleen Bennett is a mom who loves the beach, kids and pets. She maintains websites and blogs about having fun with kids and pets, often together. Check out her latest site with helpful information for keeping your dog or cat healthy. Check out VIP Pet Insurance and do a Pet Insurance Comparison.

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boatSummer is a great time to be out on your boat, but take sensible precautions to keep yourself and your valuables safe. Thieves are always on the lookout for easy targets. Don’t make yourself an easy target. Always follow these simple steps.

  • Never leave anything valuable on display, however small and insignificant it may seem. Thieves steal first and think about value later.
  • Don’t leave anything loose in the cockpit or on deck.
  • Don’t leave your engine key in the ignition – always take it with you.
  • Keep your boat keys separate from your engine keys.
  • Always keep your boat locked when no one is on board, even for a short time.
  • Use strong padlocks or rimlocks on all your hatches, entry points and cockpit lockers.
  • Constantly check and improve the security on your boat. It’s a good idea to fit an alarm and use a visible sticker to say that one is fitted.
  • Make sure your cockpit lockers can be properly locked, and check that your main hatch and fore-hatch are strong.
  • Also think about having a strongbox down below. If you don’t think something is secure, get it fixed.


Once you’ve tied up alongside, always do a quick security check before going ashore.


  • Lock anything valuable out of sight in a strong locker secured by a strong padlock;
  • Lock up emergency money away from other valuables;
  • Keep your curtains closed so that no-one can look in;
  • Keep unused ropes, fenders and other items out of sight in your cockpit, lockers and cupboards – and always lock them;
  • Make sure that your life raft and outboard motor are secure, as these are valuable and attractive to boat thieves.
  • When you go ashore from a dinghy, always remove your oars or paddles, rowlocks or pump, and secure the dinghy with a strong chain and padlock.
  • If you are the victim of boat theft, call the police immediately and tell the harbour master or boatyard manager. Check to make sure that your boat is still seaworthy and hasn’t been badly damaged.
  • And, if you can, check that neighboring boats haven’t been broken into as well.
  • Get to know other boat owners in your marina and work together to keep the marina secure. You can do the following.
  • Keep an eye on other boats, as well as your own.
  • Report any strangers at the marina to the harbour master or yard master.
  • Don’t give your marina access card or key to other people.
  • Never tell anyone else the access code to the marina.
  • Don’t let strangers into the marina, however genuine they may seem.
  • Keep the marina gate closed at all times.

As always, I recommend learning some self defense at Matt Randall’s Black Belt Academy.  Docking in strange ports can be dangerous. Knowing how to protect yourself and your family is an invaluable skill set.

Tell Master Randall that Sam sent you.

Emergency Survival Tips – Get Prepared for a Zombie Attack

This one goes out to my best ex-friend Tyler the Zombie, just to pester him a bit.  Sorry, that’s my passive aggressive side showing.

~ Survivor Sam
By Josh Hewett

Whether or not you believe there will be an actual Zombie Apocalypse, being prepared will only increase your chances of surviving any number of other potentially life-threatening events. With increasing incidents of natural disasters, disease, social unrest, drug use, vaccinations, immunizations, genetically modified foods, chemical additives, power shortages, violent crime, and TV reality shows, it seems to me that it will only be a matter of time before we face a massive crisis of some kind.

In the end, when the ZA arrives, the zombies won’t give a sh*t if you believe in them or not! You’re either prepared, or you’re zombie food. The first step to being prepared is to know your enemy.

What are Zombies?

Zombies were people just like you and me, but who have somehow become transformed into mindless flesh-eating creatures. There are many theories of what zombies are, or what kind of zombies we will have the pleasure of dealing with at the next out-break, but history has given us some clues.

The first official record of “undead zombies” was in November of 2000, and was caused by the mutated cross-gene virus known as (nvCJD/BF) Bird flu / CJD. New variant Creutzfeldt – Jakob disease. Apparently, this virus evolved from a cross-mutation of the mad cow virus and the bird flu, and began infecting humans throughout the United Kingdom. Victims would essentially “die” after being infected with this virus, and their corpses would become reanimated as aggressive, hungry zombies. Although widely reported at the time, this zombie scourge was kept a secret by certain government and military intelligence agencies, and the media and witnesses were silenced.

There have been other reports of massive zombie outbreaks due to radiation poisoning, military experimentation with biological weapons, consumption of certain drug or chemical agents, and other viral infections. In almost all cases there was a government cover-up involved. In most cases the victims become violently ill within hours before falling into a deep coma, only to awaken as “zombies”. Although physical and mental ability may vary depending on the cause of the “infection”, a zombie typically loses the capacity for higher level functioning, and acts on basic brain-stem impulses, including:

• Alertness

• Arousal

• Feeding and hunger

• Breathing

• Digestion

• Other Autonomic Functions

So although some zombies may move faster than others, typically as the zombification process progresses the zombie will become slower and lose agility / mobility. Fortunately this makes them easier to escape than an average human predator. However, be aware that zombies don’t get tired or feel pain, they often travel in packs, and they will attack with animal-like ferocity. They are also difficult to kill as most organs have ceased functioning and they are driven by primal impulses from their brain-stem carried through the body’s nervous system. The only proven way to destroy a zombie is to destroy their brain.

How to Survive a Zombie Attack

There are a number of considerations to increase your chances of surviving an attack from a zombie horde, including shelter, food and supplies, weapons, team-building, and training. There are a number of other resources available which discuss weapons and supplies more in-depth, so for the sake of efficiency we will only briefly review them. The focus of this report will be on your training.


Chances are at some point you will come face to face with a zombie. Weaponry is important, but your most valuable asset is your own body. This is when the saying “survival of the fittest” takes on literal significance. Everything else being equal, those with greater strength, fitness, and mental toughness will survive the longest. To stay physically ready for such an event requires adherence to an effective training and nutrition plan. To get you started on the right track, this article will describe 4 Survival Exercises to begin incorporating into your current workouts.

Even if you’re well-armed, the time will come when you will need to be able to run, jump, climb, fight, and crawl in order to survive a zombie attack. This will require strength, stamina, and power. These four exercises are a great start to developing these attributes.

Box Jumps

This is an explosive lower body exercise that can help you jump up onto, or over, obstacles that zombies will not be able to navigate. Box jumps and jump squats also have a carry-over into other movements, such as Muscle-Ups. To get over a high fence or to get on top of a shed, balcony, or garage, you may first need to be able to jump up to get a hold on top before you can pull yourself up and onto it.

Progressively increase the height of the box or platform you can jump up onto, and remember that the box jump involves your full body; lean forward before you jump and extend your entire body powerfully as you jump, while incorporating a dynamic arm swing.

Tire Hammer Slams

There are several variations of sledgehammer tire slams, but the same basic principles are involved. Use a rotational swing as you come down, back, and around the body with the hammer. Extend at the top of the swing, then flex your entire body forward into the swing (depending on which direction you’re swinging). Work with the hammer, rather than fighting it… momentum is your friend here. Also practice swinging from both sides, and with just one arm… you need to be prepared if you end up losing an arm to one of these beasts.

Similar technique applies to other weapons such as baseball bats, golf clubs, axes, steel bars, etc. Learn to use what you have available to you in your immediate surroundings.

HIIT and Sprint Work

To escape zombies a certain level of conditioning is necessary, but long, slow cardiovascular exercise is a waste of time. Zombies don’t get tired. Being able to jog long distances is especially useless when confronted by a horde of zombies. You need speed and agility to escape in these situations. You better be able to run fast, then pace yourself as needed, and then back into a sprint without fatiguing.

The key is to employ High Intensity Interval Training and sprint work. Your interval training / sprint workouts should not last longer than 20 minutes.

Muscle Ups and Progressions

The muscle up is a challenging upper body exercise that is usually performed explosively, however, advanced trainees are able to execute this movement with slow control as well. Once you develop the strength, power, and skill to do several muscle ups, you should have the ability to pull yourself up onto or over barriers, fences, and high obstacles. Quickly climbing ropes, ladders, and trees will become much easier as well.

Because the muscle up is such a difficult exercise to master, it will take some time to progressively work up to it.

If you consistently train these four exercises you will be far more likely to survive the zombie plague. However, these are just scratching the surface… to be turn yourself into a zombie-killing machine, and to become a true survivalist, you will need to follow a well-designed training program that includes “functional” exercises that have a high degree of carry-over to real life activities.

Your training program should include body weight training (ie: calisthenics-type exercises), implement training (ie: strongman-style ‘odd-implement’ training), and free weight exercises (ie: barbells and dumbbells). The exercise selection should be focused on compound, multi-joint movements, and should include some speed, power, and explosiveness training as well.

Shelter and Fortification

If you’re trapped at home when the Z-Day arrives, fortify your house as much as possible as quickly as possible. Remove the room doors on the inside of your house, and nail them over the main floor windows. Wedge chairs under the door handles of the outside doors and move heavy furniture and appliances in front of any possible points of entry. Turn off all lights (if you still have electricity) and stay as quiet as possible after that. Gather as much food, water and potential weaponry as possible to the most secure location in your house and wait.

If and when you are able, it is best to get out of any major city or heavily populated area, and find a secure location in a more isolated lodging outside of town. If you can’t get out of the city, look for a big department store such as Walmart or Costco. These typically have fewer entrances to barricade compared to a mall, and they will have an ample amount of food and supplies. This is a longer term solution, but the ultimate goal is to get out of any heavily populated area.


Failing to prepare is preparing to fail. Put together a zombie survival kit in advance, and you won’t be running around an infested city trying to gather supplies! There are a number of sites that sell pre-prepared survival packs, but you can easily make your own.

You can also find prepared lists of supplies posted by other survivalists on

In addition, stock up as much bottled water, canned food, and dried goods as possible to keep you well-fed as you sit out the first few weeks of the apocalypse. This is just a smart thing to do in preparation for black-outs, natural disasters, food shortages, or economic collapse.


Firearms are obviously the best weapons to have on hand when the zombies stumble into your town, but there are some practicalities to consider. First of all, how easy is it for you to purchase a gun where you live? If you reside in a more right-leaning state in the USA you shouldn’t have any issue picking up the firearm of your choice. If you are a member of any street gang worth it’s rep, I’m sure you’ll be able to arm yourself as well.

It is best to own at least one long range (ie: rifle) and one short range weapon (ie: shotgun or pistol). Then you need to consider licencing your weapon (usually) and learning how to use it properly. Given that you need a direct head-shot to kill a zombie, you will need to spend some time with target practice on the gun range. Simply owning a gun does not make you an expert marksman. Get prepared now. Of course, after the Day of the Dead arrives, anything goes! Loot and steal as many weapons and supplies as possible. The more epic the weapon the better… if you happen across a jeep-mounted machine gun (ala Rambo), grab it and have fun blowing the undead to bits!

Another limitation to consider with firearms is that you will likely run out of bullets before you run out of zombies to kill. Another solid alternative is a crossbow, because you can potentially re-use the arrows if you are able to retrieve them. However, this requires even more training than using a gun, and you can still run out of arrows. In any case it is wise to have several other melee weapons on hand such as a baseball bat, sledgehammer, axes, a shovel, crowbar, long blade knives,and a machete or sword if you can find one.

As mentioned earlier, you will also need to be ready to use any random objects around you as weapons if need be.

Team Building

Another key to survival is effective team building. This is part of the reason we assembled Team Barbarian. Ideally you can draw from a pool of friends with different skill-sets and backgrounds, such as medical, military, a chef, an engineer, a mechanic, a science buff, etc. You might also want to become buddies with that crazy guy down the block… you know the one; the ex-military red-neck survivalist who keeps stockpiles of canned food and weapons in his basement bunker.

When gathering supplies, travel in groups of at least 2 or 3 people… and preferably make sure you are always grouped up with someone who is a bit out of shape and slower than you. This ensures that he will be eaten before you if zombies take chase, which can buy you some valuable time.

Finally, remember that if you’re best friend gets bitten, blow his head off or crush his skull right away! Don’t be stupid.

We hope this special report will help you live through an attack of the living dead. Train Smart and Stay Strong.

Josh Hewett is the founder of Team Barbarian, a group dedicated to serious, real-life strength and conditioning training methods. Watch his short video demonstrating the four exercises for surviving a zombie attack.

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how-much-money-is-in-an-atmATM cash machines have been incorporated in our way of life. They offer a real convenience to those on the run but at the same time offer an element of risk. Using an ATM machine safely requires awareness and a little planning. Just because an ATM machine is open and available 24-hours a day doesn’t mean it is safe to use it. Most ATM robberies occur at night between 8:00 PM and midnight. ATM robbers are usually males under 25 years of age and most work alone. ATM robbers usually position themselves nearby waiting for a victim to approach and withdraw cash. Most ATM robbery victims are women and were alone when robbed. Most claim that they never saw the robber coming. Most ATM robbers used a gun or claimed to have a concealed weapon when confronting the victim and demanding their cash.

If you or your family members use ATM cash machines on a regular basis, here are some tips that can make the process a little safer:

  • Use only ATM machines in well-lighted, high-traffic areas. Don’t use ATM machines that are remote or hidden such as being located behind buildings, behind pillars, walls, or away from public view.   Beware of obvious hiding places like shrubbery or overgrown trees. ATM robbers like to have the element of surprise and no witnesses.   Robbers like good escape routes like nearby freeway on-ramps or high speed thoroughfares.
  • Choose an ATM that looks and ‘feels’ safer, even if it is a couple of miles out of the way. Try and limit your use to daylight hours. Take someone with you after hours, if you can. When you drive up to an ATM location, scan the area for any suspicious persons. If you see anyone suspicious standing nearby or sitting in a car, drive away. When you approach an ATM on foot be prepared and have your access card ready. Memorize your personal PIN number to prevent loss and speed the transaction. After inserting your card and your PIN number keep an eye out behind you. Never accept an offer to help or request for help from a suspicious male ahead of you at the machine.   If anyone suspicious or seemingly dangerous approaches terminate your transaction and leave immediately, even if it means running away and leaving your ATM card in the machine. First, tell the suspicious male in a loud, firm voice to “back-off” and leave you alone. This is designed to startle the person and give you time to flee, if appropriate. When you receive cash from the machine put it away immediately, extract your card, and walk away.
  • If you use your car at a drive-thru ATM machine the same rules apply. Keep the car in gear, with your foot firmly on the brake, while using the ATM machine. Keep a close eye on your rear and side view mirrors during the transaction. Robbers almost always approach from the rear on the drivers side. If you see anyone approaching, drive off even if it means leaving your ATM card behind. If you are confronted by an armed robber, just give up your money without argument. The cash is not worth serious injury or death. Get to a safe place and call the police immediately.
  • If lights around the ATM are not working, don’t use that machine
  • Avoid ATM machines adjacent to obvious hiding places
  • Have your card ready and leave quickly, not counting your cash in public
  • Beware of offers for help from strangers during an ATM transaction
  • Don’t fight with or attempt to follow the robber
  • Drive or walk to a safe place and immediately call the police

Of course, I always recommend that your family learn some martial arts self-defense skills.  The best place to do that is with my friend Master Randall at Matt Randall’s Black Belt Academy.

Stay safe,



• One of the times your home is most vulnerable is when it is left empty for an extended period of time. Darkened windows, mail or newspapers collecting and closed windows in hotter weather all advertise your absence to a potential burglar.

• The best protection for your apartment during your absence is to have a house sitter. A friend you trust staying at your house can take care of your pets and/or plants in addition to making sure the house is inhabited.

• Have a neighbor check on your apartment while you’re away — turning on lights, radios or TVs and opening and closing curtains will give your apartment the appearance of someone home.

• If you don’t have a friend or neighbor to housesit or check your apartment while you’re away — perhaps even if you do — you should keep not only lights but a TV or radio on a timer. If you’re like me and have your TV on almost all the time you’re home [NOTE: I don’t watch it, it’s just background noise.], the absence of the sound and that glowing light in the windows announces that you’re not there.

• Make sure whoever is checking your apartment while you’re away knows how to work your alarm system and who to call in case of a problem.

• Unless you have a house sitter, stop your mail and any newspaper or other delivery. Nothing announces an empty apartment better than a stack of newspapers or an overflowing mailbox. Ask a nearby neighbor to pick up any packages delivered while you’re gone.

• If you have a garden or plants on your balcony, make sure someone is watering the plants regularly or put the plants where they can’t be seen. Plants slowly dying due to lack of water may announce your absence.

• Check your lease. Many landlords require that you notify them if your apartment is going to be left empty for any period of time (this is so they can enter in case of emergency even if they can’t reach you). If you’ve got a house sitter this isn’t necessary.

Of course, when you are traveling, it is always good to know some martial arts self-defense.  The best place to get the right skills is Matt Randall’s Black Belt Academy in Dover, NH.  Give Master Randall a call at 603-743-6500 or visit the website at

Tell him Sam sent you!

~ Survivor Sam